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1 I V/ DESIGNED BY THE ^ ^^ ^V^ 

Great Co stumers 
Europe 



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[/^ PARIS E. FELIX 

LONDON -DEBENHAM ^FBEtBOBl^—^ 

BERLIN JULES BISTER 

'FRANrtFORT^-ULLMANN & STRAUSS 

'BRUSSELS HIRSCH S CIE '"\ 

THE HAGUE M A.VOGELS 

, ST. PETERSBURG - A, IZAMBARD 



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ll^ VIENNA CH. DRECOLL 

iV^ TURIN -DE GASPARI, ROSA E TORTA 
'- FLORENCE - - - EMILIA BOSS! 

VoNS AUX DEUX PASSAGES • 

GLASGOW- SIMPSON HUNTER &Y0UN6 

DUBLIN MANNING 

UVERP00L-6EQHENRYLEE&C0. 



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To Our Patrons 



This book contains thirty full-page designs, half of the illustrations 
in colors. Each costume is described as to design and color, and each 
authenticated by the signature of the modeler, 

Who is one of the 
Great Modehng Costumers 
of the World 

They say under their own signatures that the designs illustrated in this 
book are to be the coming fashions for the spring and summer of 1896. 
Alessrs. Jordan, Marsh & Co. have perfected arrangements by which, 
they are here enabled to display before their patrons the 

Coming Spring and Summer Styles 

for 1896 

of the great modeling costumers of the world, authenticated by their 
own signatures. 

The money worth of this book to those who desire to know the 
correct style can not be estimated in dollars and cents. The fashion 
monarchs of Europe simply turned their backs when approached with a 
pecuniary offer for their ideas, and this is the first time any house in 
the world has been enabled to give genuine authentic European fashion 
designs in advance of the season. 

JORDAN, MARSH & COMPANY. 

Boston, April 15, 1S96. 



COMING STYLES 



/? 



DESIGNED BY THE 



GREAT COSTUMERS 



1^1'^ 



OF EUROPE 



Two Designs J from the leading Costwner of each of the 
fourteen great cities of Europe, as follows : 



PARIS E. Felix 

LONDON Debenh AM & Freebody 

BERLIN Jules Bister 

FRANKFURT A. M ULLMANN & STRAUSS 

BRUSSELS HiRSCH & CiE 

THE HAGUE M. A. VOGELS 

ST. PETERSBURG A. IZAMBARD 



VIENNA Ch. Drecoll 

TURIN De Gaspari, Rosa e Torta 

FLORENCE EMILIA BOSSI 

LYONS Aux DEUX Passages 

GLASGOW Simpson, Hunter & Young 

DUBLIN Manning 

LIVERPOOL George Henry Lee & Co. 



PUBLISHED BY 



Jordan, Marsh & Co., 



Boston. 



\ 



^, 



\ 




Fournisseur 

a S. M. La Reine d'ltalie. 

S. M, La Reine Marie Dona Pia. 
S. A. J. Comtesse d'Eu. 
Les Princesses de Bulgaric. 
Les Princesses Lobanoff, 
Radziswill & Obolinsky, de la 
cour de Russie. 



VISITING COSTUAAE. 

Wide skirt of old blue silk falling on sides over underskirt of pale lilac mousseline-de-soie 

draped very full over the silk and gathered at the bottom with black velvet ribbon 

forming a dainty garland and three full bows. Old blue silk basque with coat 

long on sides, and shorter, with very full pleats, in back. Waist plain in 

back, large revers falling over the shoulder and exposing the V-shaped 

and slightly decollete vest of finely pleated mousseline in front 

and back; upper sleeves of old blue silk quite full and opening 

over lower sleeve of pleated mousseline. Ribbons and 

bow at neck and waist. Large rhinestone buttons. 



a 




(E. Felix, Paris.) 



Copyright, 1896, by Kaiid, McNally & Co 





Founiisseur 

a La Princesse de Chimay. 
La Duchesse de Maille. 
La Duchesse d'Uzes. 
La Duchesse de Luynes. 
La Comtesse de la Rochefoucault. 
La Vicomtesse de Greffulhc. 
La Duchesse de la Torre. 
Madam Sarah Bernhardt. 
Mi^s Ada Rohan, et an Theatre 
l^"ransais du Vaudeville. 






PROA\ENADE GOWN. 

Princesse dress of striped pale-green silk and white satin; front of white satin with 

tabs of delicate black lace beaded with jet trimming over green satin; trimming 

of loops of black satin ribbon. Jetted tabs on corsage form reversed re vers. 

Same beaded lace over green satin forms the long lower sleeve, into 

which the fullness of upper sleeve is gathered. Epaulette and 

collier of black satin loops over white satin. Small bonnet of 

ribbon and violets; large black parasol covered with mousse- 

linc-de-soie and trimmed with bunches and loose violets. 




^ v:S^ 



(E. FELIX, Paris ) 




Madame Bossi 

furnishes Their Majesties the 

Queens of 

Italy, Servia, and Wurtemberg. 




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\'IS1TING TOILETTE. 

Skirt and sleeves are of brocaded taffeta on porcelain blue and cream. The 

corsage is of ecru chiffon, shirred and embroidered in steel 

jewels. Collar and belt of velvet. 



EMILIA BOSSI, 



Per 




Florence., 




-<ac>fe>- 




PROA\ENADE TOILETTE. 

The full navy blue mohair skirt is cut with a corselet. The blouse is of checked 

taffeta in dainty colors to correspond with the skirt, and large fischu- 

like collar of the same material as the skirt. 




EMILIA BOSSI, 



Per 



Florence, 





VISITING COSTUA\E. 

The skirt in black satin duchesse, quite plain. The corsage in rose pink 

peau de sole with deep tabbed collar in old guipure studded 

with jet. Belt of green and pink shot velvet. Hat en suite. 



(Debenham & Freedody, London.) 





SPRING WALKING DRESS. 

-Skirt and sleeves in pale yellow chine with blurred flowers in dehcate shades. - 

Bodice of white satin embroidered with fine jet and green sequins. 

Ceinture and collar in vert tendre satin ; toque en suite. 



(Debenham & FREEBODY, London.) 




M. A. Izambard is 
Costumer to the ladies of the court at 

St. Petersburg. 

Amonjf his numerous clientele is the 

beautiful 

Duchess of Leuchtenberg 

ind the Ccuiltess Strogonoff, covirt-lady 

to the Dowager Empress. 




VISITING TOILETTE. 

This costume is made of " velvetine nouviante," now so fashionable. The color is a 

dark blue, flecked with tiny yellow spots. Feather trimming, 

jet, and yellow velvet trim the waist. 



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(A. IZAHB.^RD, St. Petersburg.) 







.,,^"SfSr. 



EVENING DRESS. 

This costume is particularly adapted to a brunette. The j-ellow brocade is trimmed 

with jet. The sleeves are of black chiffon. Grelots of 

jet trim the low cut bodice. 



^.o^ 




(A. IZAMBARD, St. Petersburg.) 




To the Imperial Family 
of Austria. 




HOUSE DRESS. 

Chine silk of variegated colors on green ground ; very full skirt and sleeves ; 

large fichu collar of finely pleated light rose chiffon striped with 

black velvet ribbon and gold braid, and fastened with darker 

rose ribbon, which runs over shoulders, forms belt, and 

falls in front in long bow and ends; cuffs 

and collar of golden brown velvet. 




(Ch. Drecoll, Vienna.) 




PROMENADE COSTUME. 

Brown cloth; full skirt edged at hem with rows of narrow gold braid; waist 

forming jacket from back seams, and striped diagonally with rows 

of gold braid finished by tiny brass buttons; white silk 

vest embroidered with gold; white silk cravat. 




(CH. DRECOLL, Vienna.) 




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MARQUISE. 

Silk-satin lined with silk, veiled at sides and back, with ivory sprig net, edged 

lace. Bodice in satin or chene brocade, with re vers in ivory satin and 

bands of gold galloon; sleeves formed with bands of the 

galloon over silk ground; the lace coming from 

underneath is trimmed with violets. 




(George Henry Lee & Co., Liverpool.) 




To the Royal Court of Holland. 



^ 




TAILOR-AAADE. 

The chief tint of this dress is "crimson-lake," and it is a summer cloth; the waist- 
coat is of grey-pearl amazon cloth. The trimming is bordered with silk 
embroider}', while the waistcoat is embroidered b}- hand. 



(M. A. VOGELS, The Hague.) 





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DUCHESSE. 

In sky-blue silk satin, studded with good paste diamonds; sleeves of wide yellow 

ribbon, edged with lace; the skirt (which is lined with silk as well 

as the bodice) shows a narrow panel of yellow satin 

with jabot of lace on either side. 




t/^^^/^^H^ 



(George Henry Lee & Co., Liverpool.) 




To the Royal Court of Holland. 




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POA\PADOUR. 

This costume is of " pompadour" material — a wool and silk cream colored "fond, 

with flowered crepe de chine. The corselet is of cream colored crepe de 

chine. The crepe de chine "ruche" around the throat is trimmed with 

lilac ribbons of the same shade as the flowers. The sleeves 

are of the same material as the skirt, and bordered 

with a ruche of crepe de chine and ribbon. 




(M. A. VOGELS, The Hague.) 




Fournisseurs 

a S. M. La Reine d'ltalie. 
S. M. La Reine de Saxe. 
S. A. R. La Duchesse de Genes 

Elizabeth. 
S. A. R. La Duchesse de Genes 

Isabelle. 
S. A. J. R. La Duchess d'Aoste 
Bonaparte. 



ROBE DE VISITE. 

In light cloth with very airy cream lace, Figaro jacket 
on corsage ; be!t of black satin. 



!^£ ^CL//tM.i!>/ c^^,;-^^ c^ ( 



(De Gaspari, Rosa e Torta, Turin.) 





By special appointment to Her Majesty 

The Queen of Roumania 

and the Irish Court. 



To H. M. The Queen of England. 
H. R. H. The Princess of Wales, 
H. R. H. The Duchess of York. 
H. R. H. The Princess Louise. 




TEA GOWN. 

Special season's design, made "en princesse," of the new and lovely silk, "poplin 

neigeuse." Front of skirt and bodice of richest white satin trimmed with 

bands of real sable ; enormous revers trimmed with double 

row of sable. Collar volant and large cuffs of 

exquisite cream Belgian lace. 




(ALFRED M.^NNING, Dublin.) 




To H. M. The Queen of England, 
li. R. H. The Princess of Wales, 
li. R. H. The Duchess of York. 
H. R. H. The Princess Louise. 
By special appointment to Her Majesty 
The Queen of Roumania 
and the Irish Court. 




COURT GOWN. 

Designed for Miss Crichton, one of the belles of Ireland and daughter of Colonel the 

Hon. Charles Crichton. Very full skirt of richest turquoise blue satin Duchesse, 

embroidered by hand with flight of swallows in steel sequins; corsage quite 

plain, in blue satin embroidered at top, and basque with steel 

sequins and swallows. Puffed sleeves of white chiffon, with 

soft folds of chiffon at bust. Court train, regulation 

length (4 yards), of blue satin lined with rich 

white satin, trimmed at right corner with 

garniture of yellow roses and foliage. 





(Alfred Manning, Dublin.) 






TOILETTE DE CERE/nONlE. 

Brocaded satin of varied shades ; godet skirt ; corsage back cut in one piece ; trim- 
ming of ivory satin and embroidery ; revers in front forming epaulettes ; 

center of the front of mousseline-de-soie pleated very fine ; belt of AUX DES PASSAGES, LYONS, 

satin with gilded galloons, the same galloons on corsage form- ^,,---^ 

ing " Brandebourgs ; " godet basque; tight lower Jo/f/6 ^f'>^^' 

sleeve extending and gathering full upper . 

sleeve ; top of sleeve not too bouffant. /7^7*'J7ty//,aA-//t 





PROA\ENADE TOILETTE. 

In novelty goods of mixed wool and silk impressed in a " chain " design of variegated 
colors. Godet skirt; waist covered mousseline-de-soie of dark shade; the trim- 
ming arranged to form a fichu; small godet basque with ribbon girdle 
tied in a knot and falling in long ends on the skirt; sleeves, as 
the m.odel shows, with ruffle of mousseline-de-soie bows 
of ribbon ; draped collar with bow in the back. 



AUX DES PASSAGES, LYONS, 
JOiff/6 /(f'f2^^ 




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(JACKET. 

Dark blue diagonal, trimmed with passementerie and Persian lamb; collar of Persian y^y^ 

lamb; the rounded back seams are covered by a strip of fur and finished off by x 

soutache embroidery; front tight-fitting, with wide passementerie and 

large Persian lamb buttons; the same trimming on the sleeves. (Ullmann & Strauss, Frankfort A. M.) 






VISITING TOILET. 

Dress and sleeves of taffeta (impression sur chaine a Pelcin degrade noir). Skirt 

opens in front on accordion flounce of gauze covered with black lace. The 

corsage is a basque with a foundation of white satin covered with 

Brussels lace. The coat is of white satin and gold brocade, 

and the guimpe of gauze similar to the flounce on 

skirt. This design may be used for a street 

gown by employing any of the 

new novelty woolen goods. 




(HiRSCH & ClE., Brussels.) 
Also of Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, 
and Hamburg. 




Pournisseurs 
De S. M. La Reine des Beiges. 





Hoflieferanten J. K. H. 

Prinzessin Friedrich Leopold 

\'(m Preussen. 



BALL DRESS. OR RECEPTION GOWN. 

This costume is a princesse of satin duchesse of any desired shade. Corsage, 

drapery, and sleeves are entirely of brocade ; the skirt garniture is of brocade 

arranged in garlands. The flowers of the brocade are in relief, and 

consist of bunches of violets tied with gold-flecked ribbon in 

Louis XV knots. The guimpe is of real Brussels lace 

interwoven with gold. This costume may be 

developed either in brocade or damask. 




(HIRSCH & ClE., Brussels.) 
Also of Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, 
and Hamburg. 




WALKING cosTU/ne. 

Navy blue Sicilian cloth. Full plain skirt. Bodice with deep sailor collar 

and yoke of white satin covered with rich ecru lace. Soft full front of 

white satin covered with white chiffon; full front finished off with 

tabs of black braid and little gold buttons. Gold galloon 

laid round waist on top of full basque. 



(Simpson, Hunter & Young, Glasgow.) 





To Her Majesty and the Princess o£ 

the Royal and Imperial Family 

of Germany. 



PROA\ENADE TOILETTE. 

Doe-colored beige trimmed with cream guipure insertions. 

Blouse of plaid silk with steel belt. A'ery 

practical, simple, and delicate. 



^£'(_4lL^ 




(Jules Bister, Berlin.) 



^ 








EVENING GOWN. 

In pale blue pompadotir satin with pale pink chiffon 
and ecru Bretonne lace. 



(Simpson, Hunter & Young, Glasgow.) 




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To Her Majesty and the Princess of 
the Royal and Imperial Family 
^ of Germany. 



BALL cosTU/ne. 

Skirt and sleeves of rose colored satin ; corsage of satin and Nile green vel- 
vet ; chemisette of white mousseline-de-soie with cream in- 
sertions ; trimming of velvet roses ; gold belt. 



^fc-t-*^ 




(Jules Bister, Berlin.) 




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THEATER BLOUSE. 

Rose chifEon cut square in the neck and trimmed with passementerie of cream insertion 
and black bead chains. Insertions covered with black beads. The passe- 
menterie reaches high in the neck, covering the square decollete 
front. Very large puffed sleeves of rose satin duchesse. 
Girdle of black ribbon. Neck trimming of rose 
chiffon, passementerie, and black ribbon. 



^^^ 




(Ullmann & Strauss, Frankfort A. M.) 




AN ArTERNOON RECEPTION GOWN. 

The skirt is made of pink satin brocade, cut full, and slightly touching the ground at the 

back. The waist is of pink mirror velvet, made with full blouse effect in front 

and elaborately trimmed with white ruches. The sleeves are bouffon, 

just coming to the elbow where they are finished with a 

roll of the velvet. A handsome ribbon belt is 

finished with loops and bows. 



«^-5^ . O-^;^.,,^^^^^^^ 




i,A. Iz.-iMB.iKD, St. Petersburg.) 




ROBE DE VISITE. 

of several delicate colors on porcelain blue ^^ ^CL^t^cUZ^ _ ijAj? ^^rd^f^^ 



Of taffeta chine ; small roses 

ground ; the waist of cream embroidery appliqued on black 

gauze. Revers of porcelain blue velvet ; collar 

and jabot of mousseline Nil. 




(De G.^sp.ari, Rosa e Torta, Turin.) 



An Introduction to the Modelers 



♦ ♦ « 

In the first number of this important work it seems fitting that a comprehensive history should be given of 
these the greatest Modelers of Europe. Space, however, forbids more than a few words, and we shall reserve many- 
interesting facts for a subsequent issue, 

M. Felix of Paris is so well known that it seems almost unnecessary to say that at least there is not a more 
famous costumer in the world. His costumes, which are the most radical known, are adopted by the Royalty of 
Europe, the Theatre Frangais, and the Vaudeville, and we Americans view them every year on our own stage. 
Twelve years ago, when Mme. Sarah Bernhardt first came to America, all her scenic costumes were designed by 
Felix, and those who remember the eulogies bestowed on her gowns can hardly fail to perceive that they were the 
work, not of the artist alone, but of the master. The high esteem in which he is held may be gathered from the fact 
that the Paris Exposition (1900) Committee has granted him the sole concession to erect a building on the grounds, 
and there display a history of "Women's Costume, showing all the epochs of dress from ancient days to the present. 

While in London, if one asks, "Which is the greatest house for gen,eral costumes ? " he will invariably receive 
the reply, " Debenham & Freebody," and this in the face of the fact that it is an enormous wholesale and retail- 
establishment, which has been in existence for more than a century, and has spread its wholesale houses to New 
York, Paris, Melbourne, Sydney, and Brussels. The firm's artist, ■' Pilotelle," who designed the costumes con- 
tributed by them, is the most famous artist of London in this especial line. 

Hirsch & Cie. of Brussels (also of Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, and Hamburg) are costumers to the Court 
of Belgium. The house was founded in 1869, and employs in Brussels alone over a thousand employes on gowns, 
coats, and fur trimmings for ladies. M. Hirsch was decorated by the Queen of Belgium with the order of 
"Leopold." The house received gold medals at the National Exposition of Brussels in 1880, the International 
Exposition of Amsterdam in 1883, and the International Exposition of Antwerp in 1885. 

Jules Bister occupies the head position as costumer at Berhn; he is "foumisseur" to the Imperial Court, to 
the ladies of honor, to four monarchial courts of Germany, and to most of the resident ambassadors at the German 
capital. 

UUman & Strauss of Frankfurt-am-Main are a firm of the first rank in that great city of finance. The house 
is one of the youngest and most progressive of Europe, and makes a specialty of jackets, adopting the " genres" 
of Vienna fashion. 

The house of M. A. Vogels has been in existence for over sixty years, and is the firm, " par excellence," of 
The Hague, the residence capital of Holland. Among its patrons are the Royal Court and principal families of 
Holland. 

Alfred Manning of Dublin enjoys a reputation second to none in Great Britain. The house was established 
by his father sixty years ago, and the son spent years with the leading costumers of Paris and London before taking 
up his father's affairs, which he has enormously developed. In addition to the names mentioned on his pages of 
illustrations, he counts among his clientele the greatest nobility of Great Britain, and such artists as Patti, Melba, 
Nordica, Albani, Scalchi, Langtry, Nilsson and many others. 

The Maison Izambard of St. Petersburg has been in existence many years, and makes a specialty of court 
costumes, which are all of the same pattern and colors at the Russian Court when worn by the ladies of honor to 
Her Imperial Majesty. M. Izambard presented to the writer, while at St. Petersburg, a photograph of the costume 
worn by the present Dowager Empress at her coronation at Moscow; this costume was the creation of M. Izambard. 

Ch. Drecoll of Vienna is the greatest costumer of Austria; his clientele embraces the Austrian Court and the 
nobility, and his tailor-made costumes are sent to all parts of Europe and America, where they are used as models; 
in fact,- it is he who makes Vienna famous for tailor-made dresses. The establishment is one of the most elegant 
in Europe. 

De Gaspari, Rosa e Torta occupy a handsome establishment on the grand square of Turin, Italy, and have 
a great reputation ; they are costumers to the Queen of Italy, the Queen of Saxony, and the Dowager Duchesses 
Elizabeth of Genoa, Isabelle of Genoa, and the Imperial Dowager Duchess d'Aoste Bonaparte. 

The house of Emilia Bossi of Florence, Italy, is the representative one of that beautiful city, and counts 
among its patrons some of our wealthiest and best known American families residing there. 

"Aux Deux Passages " of Lyons was established in 1856, and is the largest house of Southern France, and 
commands a clientele of the aristocracy of the central and southern parts of the country. As its name implies, it 
runs from street to street. 

The firm of George Henry Lee & Co. of Liverpool is owned by Alderman T. W. Oakshott, and his two sons, 
Arthur and T. D. Oakshott, are joined in the management; the house is well known on this side of the water, and 
is especially famous for novelties in riding habits and tailor-made gowns, although these compose a small part of the 
business, which is an exhaustive one. 

Simpson, Hunter & Young of Glasgow have been established nearly half a century; it is a representative 
Scotch house, of hijh reputation and refined taste, its clientele extending throughout Great Britain. 



Ladies' Garments 



The Largest Department in this Coun- 
try, and one of the Most hnportaiit in 
our Great Retail Establishment. 



" I ^O THOvSE of our patrons who visit our store in person, and have 
^ witnessed the daily growth of this department to its present mammoth 
proportions, we have onl}^ to say we have not stopped growing yet, and 
surprises are in store for you during the present season. We have made 
extraordinary efforts through our representatives, both at home and abroad, 
to open the present season with tlie finest, largest, and most reasonable stock 
of ladies' garments that ready money, combined with rare talent in the 
selection of just what is wanted by the purchasing public, can procure. 
This great stock will consist in most part of the serviceable, value-received 
sort of goods, in the latest and most stylish designs. • But at the same time 
we also have the finest and most elaborately-trimmed garments that our 
European buyers can purchase in the fashion centers of the world. 

JORDAN, MARSH & COMPANY. 

Boston, April 15, 1896. 



]3ressmaking 



We not only manufacture g-arments of our own special designs and 
to order of our own materials, but we also reproduce the finest and most 
""^ "^Vj 1/ successful effects of the great European 
-^ ' artists, and at our well-known popular prices. 




Riding Habits 
a Specialty. 



Also 



Mourning Ordei^s 



Hi - ■ — 

At Short Notice. By Letter or Telegram. 

Messrs. Jordan, Marsh & Co. have a Avide reputation for mourning 
goods. It is always wise to buy either black or gray materials of a house 
that carries the largest stock, as the choice is necessarily so much greater. 
They particularly invite inspection of their Black vSoft-draping Fabrics. 
Their dressmaking department has every facility for the prompt execution 
of orders, and will make up mourning, trimmed in correct taste, in forty- 
eight hours upon receipt of letter or telegram. 

We make a specialty of Complete Mourning Outfits, as we have at all 
times the largest assortments of Mourning Dress Goods, Millinery, Fringes 
Ruchings, Collars and Cuffs, Prints, Shawls, Gloves, Handkerchiefs, Aprons, 
Umbrellas, Parasols, Jewelry, Stationery, etc. 

JORDAN, MARSH 6t COMPANY. 



Boston, April 15, 1S96. 




APR -4 19/(5 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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